Garment manufacture



May 2, 1939. 'R L 2,156,640

GARMENT MANUFACTURE 7 Filed June 15, 1958 2 Sheet s-Sheet 1 7 Ma 2, 193,9. P, E L 2,156,640

GARMENT MANUFACTURE Filed June 13, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented May 2, 1939 I UNITED STATES PATENT GFFEQE Application June 13, 1938, Serial No. 213,484 In Canada May 20, 1938 7 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of assembling the lining of a garment, and more particularly to sewing the sleeve portion into the arm hole of the body portion.

It has been the usual practice to fell the sleeve lining to the arm hole of the body lining by hand, because difficulty of access made the use of a machine impossible. The present invention contemplates machine stitching the entire arm hole edge of the lining, with its resultant advantages. Machine stitching provides a very much cleaner and stronger joint than it is possible to fell economically by hand. Additionally, the former saves time, permitting of a considerable reduction in production costs.

It is thus a main object of the present invention to make possible machine stitching the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body linings by providing ample means of access for the machine. It is a further object to provide an improved series of production steps in a method of assembling the lining pieces.

With these and other objects in view a principal feature of the invention is the provision of a centrally disposed slit down the top sleeve lining piece to provide for spreading out the top of the sleeve lining in such a way that the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body lining pieces can be joined by machine stitching. Further features are the production steps of joining the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body pieces before joining the shoulder edges of the latter, and finally running a single continuous seam down the respective shoulder edges and the respective edges of the slit to complete the junction of the lining pieces.

Having thus generally described the invention, reference will be made to the accompanying drawings in which is illustrated the mode of assembly according to this invention of one side of a garment.

Figure l is a view showing the top and under sleeve lining pieces joined together and joined at the cuff to the garment sleeve material, to

) form a complete sleeve ready for assembly with has been joined to the body, and positioned for illustrative purposes. In this position the sleeve extends diagonally sideways from the arm hole and the sleeve lining of Figure 2, attached to it at the cuff, is doubled inwards for illustrative purposes, to bring uppermost the slit which is spread wide open.

Figure 4 illustrates a further advanced stage in the assembly of the garment to Figure 3, the sleeve lining being twisted as compared with Figure 3 to bring the arm hole edges of the sleeve lining adjacent to the arm hole edge of the body lining ready for stitching these edges together, the edges being extended laterally for illustrative purposes. In this position the right side of the sleeve lining (through the slit) is face to face with the right side of the body lining.

Figure 5 illustrates a further advanced stage of assembly in which the arm hole edges and sleeve and body linings have just been stitched together and further spread out for illustrative purposes, the garment sleeve being partly broken away to reveal the sleeve lining.

Figure 6 illustrates a further advanced stage of assembly in which for illustrative purposes, the sleeve lining is swung upwardly about the joined arm hole edges of the sleeve and body linings, and the slit of access spread wide open to expose a portion of the right side of the sleeve lining. The sleeve lining is now ready for the joining of the edges of the slit and the shoulder edges of the body lining.

Figure 7 is a view of the elements shown in Figure 6 after bringing together and joining the edges of the slit and the shoulder edges. In this view only the wrong side of the sleeve lining is visible divided by the seams of the arm hole, slit edge, and shoulder edge, which form a cross, the collar edge of the sleeve lining being adjacent in the view to the body lining.

Figure 8 shows the assembled elements of Figure '7 when the sleeve, considered as progressing from Figure '7, has been pulled inside the sleeve lining and the sleeve lining has been pulled right side out. Or, considered in terms of a finished garment, this View represents the inside of one side of the garment with the sleeve inside out, and with the collar edges of the lining in position for joining to the garment.

The sleeve lining Referring more particularly to the drawings, it will be understood that the assembly steps require the special manipulation of the garment and lining materials in various directions, so 55 that during assembly the positions of these materials are constantly changing, as will be readily understood by a practiced operator. The positions of the elements of the garment'of Figures 3-7 are arbitrary, having been chosen to illustrate the general progress from step to step in the assembly. In actual operation these arbitrary positions, while possibly never actually taken up, are assumed in practical eifect as the respective materials are being progressively manipulated into register for stitching.

In the preferred form of the invention illustrated, the under andtop sleeve lining pieces II are cut, for the purpose of machine seaming, slightly greater in extent than corresponding pieces for hand felling. To facilitate ultimate assembly of the body and sleeve pieces, the top sleeve piece II is divided as indicated in Figure 2, by a slit I5 extending from its arm hole edge (which is thus divided at the points I5a and H31), adapted to lie when the lining is assembled adjacent the outer points of the shoulder edges of the body lining pieces), down the centre portion of the piece to a point I6.

The pieces I I are then stitched together in the usual manner by edge seams I2 and I3, in conjunction with the sleeve material IT, to form a semitubular sleeve piece as illustrated in Figure 3, the lining portion of which is, of course, divided by the slit I5. The lining portion now has a continuous arm hole edge I8 divided only at the points I5a and 1517 met by the seams I2 and I3, and adapted to be stitched to the arm hole edge of the body lining. The arm hole edge may be spread out widely as indicated in Figure 3 by the division of the sleeve lining made possible by the slit I5.

The body lining 20 indicates the body lining pieces, which, for the requirements of machine seaming, as opposed to felling by hand are also cut slightly greater in extent adjacent the arm holes than corresponding pieces for customary garment manufacture. The adjacent edges of the pieces 20 are joined by machine to form a; composite body lining piece having a continuous arm hole edge 22. The edge 22 is adapted to be joined to the arm hole edge I8 of the sleeve lining and the shoulder edges 23 and 24 adapted to be eventually joined together. In the present manner of construction wherein the shoulder edges 23 and 24 are left unjoined until the final stitching operation, the arm hole edge 22 is usually manipulated into register with the arm hole edge I8 of the sleeve lining to facilitate the stitching together of these two arm hole edges. The body piece of the other side of the garment is of similar construction and both sides of the lining are set into the body of the garment material in the usual way, but with the shoulder edges 23 and 24 left unjoined and the edge of the body lining left unconnected to the garment material adjacent the top edge to allow access between the lining and the garment material during assembly.

The next step is the customary one of setting the sleeve into the garment, the sleeve lining being left free, except where joined to the garment sleeve proper at the cuff. When this has been done the sleeve and body lining pieces are ready for stitching together and the important assembly steps of the present method follow.

Joining the armhole edges To join the arm hole edges of the lining pieces, the garment sleeve is turned inside out, freeing the sleeve lining except adjacent the cuff, as indicated in Figure 3.

To facilitate bringing the adjacent portions of the respective arm hole edges I8 and 22 into register with each other, spaced apart marks 25 and 26 are provided on the latter adapted to register respectively with the end of the seam I3 and a mark 28 in the former. The sleeve and body pieces are now ready for stitching together.

Then the top part of the sleeve lining is progressively turned over to assume positions equivalent to that of Figure 4, the lining being twisted somewhat along the line I4 of Figure 3, with the slit I5 wide open to bring the'right side of the sleeve lining face to face (through the slit) with the right side of the body lining, and the arm hole edge I8 progressively into register with the arm hole edge 22 of the body piece and these edges are machine stitched together from end to end by a seam 50.

The end of the seam I3 lies adjacent the mark 25 and the mark 28 adjacent the mark 26. The point I50, lies adjacent the outer point of the shoulder edge 23 and the point I51) adjacent the outer point of the shoulder edge 24. The slit I5 permits the sleeve piece to be divided so that its arm hole edge can be laid out in conformity with that of the body piece to achieve the practical eifect demonstrated by Figures 4 and 5. The sleeve and body material can easily be manipulated out of the way as the respective arm hole edges are being machine stitched together.

The disposition of the edges of the slit will be apparent on considering Figure 3 in conjunction with Figure 4. In Figure 4 the material is twisted over so that the edges of the slit shown dotted, lie underneath the sleeve lining.

Joining the shoulder and sleeve edges Now, the sleeve lining and the body lining are solidly joined together, arm-hole edge to armhole edge, by a neat seam 50 of machine stitching. The shoulder padding may be inserted at this stage. It then only remains to bring the garment sleeve and sleeve lining progressively into position which in the aggregate somewhat corresponds to the arbitrary position illustrated in Figure 6, thus rendering the adjacent edges of the slit I5 and the shoulder edges 23 and 24 available for joining. To accomplish this the sleeve lining and the garment sleeve are in eifect swung upwards into a position equivalent to that of Figure 5, which exposes the right side of the body material and of the lining (through the slit I5). The sleeve proper extends from its arm hole connection with the body of the garment to its connection with the body of the garment to its connection with the sleeve lining by way of the opening left by the free collar edges of the sleeve lining. This View illustrates the ultimately visible side of the finished seam 50 joining the arm hole edges I8 and 22. It also shows the edges of the slit I5, and the shoulder edges 23 and 24, all free and ready for joining.

Then, in one operation, the slit I5 the edges 23 and 2d are brought together and joined by a continuous machine seam 5| extending from the inside of the shoulder edges to the point I6 at the bottom of the slit I5, or from thepoint It at the bottom of the slit I5 to the inside points of the shoulder edges, depending upon which sleeve of the garment is being assembled and the ease of machine access to it.

The sleeve lining pieces are thus machine seamed together at the arm hole edges, the shoulder edges and at the edges of the slit l5. When this is done the sleeve is reversed (turned right side out) by the access afforded between the unjoined top edges of the body lining and the body of the garment and with it the lining so that the machine stitched edges are hidden between the lining and the facing, only the clean machine seams showing on the surface of the lining at the inside of the garment. The top edges of the body lining are then secured to the garment body.

The advantages of the present method The method thus described is particularly simple, eliminating the considerable hand work required in a normally assembled lining. The important steps departing from normal practice may be summarized as follows:

1. Providing a slit of access in the sleeve lining.

2. Joining the respective arm hole edges of the sleeve and body pieces wholly by machine before joining the shoulder edges 25 and 24.

3. The rapid and simple continuous step of joining the shoulder edges 23 and 24 and the edges of the slit l5 forming a continuation thereof.

These steps are substituted for the following steps of the normal method.

1. The step of first stitching the body pieces together at the shoulder edges.

2. The step of felling together by hand the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body portions.

To one skilled in the art the advantages of the present method in saving time and manual effort will be evident.

While a preferred form of the invention has been described it will be understood that its spirit permits of variation to a certain extent, for instance the exact means of providing access for stitching might conceivably be altered to suit different conditions. Accordingly, the applicant does not wish his disclosure to be limited any more than are the accompanying claims by the prior art.

I claim:

1. A method of sewing a sleeve lining to a body lining of a garment having a body and a sleeve a body lining and a sleeve lining, comprising, joining the body lining to the body except at the collar edges, providing the sleeve lining with an opening extending part way down the lining from the arm hole edge thereof, machine stitching the arm hole edge of the sleeve lining to the body lining leaving the shoulder edges of the body lining unjoined, subsequently machine stitching together the shoulder edges of the body lining and the edges of the opening, and then joining together the collar edges of the body and of the body lining.

2. A method of sewing a sleeve liningv into a body lining of a garment having a body and a sleeve a body lining and a sleeve lining, comprising, joining the body lining to the body eX- cept at the collar edges, providing the top sleeve lining piece with a centrally disposed opening extending from the arm hole edge thereof, then successively stitching together the respective arm hole edges of the sleeve and body linings while the shoulder edges of the body lining remain unjoined, stitching together the shoulder edges of the body lining and the edges of the opening, and then joining together the collar edges of the body and of the body lining.

3. A method of constructing garments having a body and a sleeve a body lining and a sleeve lining, comprising, forming in a sleeve lining an opening adapted to provide access for machine stitching together the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body linings partially joining the body lining to the garment body, stitching together by machine through the access of said opening the arm hole edges of the sleeve and body lining, joining by machine the shoulder edges of the body lining and the edges of the opening, then reversing the sleeve to take up its normal position inside the garment sleeve.

4. A method of sewing a sleeve lining to a body lining of a garment having a body and a sleeve a body lining and a sleeve lining, comprising, providing the sleeve lining with an opening extending from the arm hole edge thereof, then successively machine stitching through the access of said opening the arm hole edge of the sleeve lining to the body lining leaving the shoulder edges of the body lining free, then machine stitching together the arm hole edges of the body lining and the edges of the opening with a continuous line of stitching.

5. A method of sewing a sleeve lining to a body lining of a garment having a body and a sleeve 2. body lining and a sleeve lining, comprising, joining the body lining to the body except at the collar edges, providing the sleeve lining with an opening, machine stitching the arm hole edge of the sleeve lining to the body lining with the shoulder edges of the body lining unjoined, subsequently stitching together the shoulder edges of the body lining and the edges of the opening, and then joining together the collar edges of the body and of the body lining.

6. A method of garment assembly which comprises forming a sleeve lining having a centrally disposed opening in the top piece thereof extending from the arm hole edge, stitching the cuif end of the sleeve lining to the corresponding end of a garment sleeve, joining the free edges of the attached garment sleeve and sleeve lining, stitching the body lining to the garment leaving free the shoulder and arm hole edges of the lining, joining the garment sleeve to the body of the garment at the arm hole, stitching the arm hole edge of the sleeve lining to the arm hole edge of the body lining with the edges of the opening forming a continuation of the shoulder edges of the body lining, then joining with a continuous seam the shoulder edges and the edges of the opening.

'7. A method of garment assembly comprising providing a garment body and a lining therefor, providing a garment sleeve and a lining therefor joining the garment lining to the garment body but leaving the collar edges free, joining the sleeve lining to the garment sleeve at the cuff, providing said sleeve lining with a slit extending from the shoulder edge thereof, joining the garment sleeve to the garment body at the arm hole edges, joining the arm hole edge of the sleeve lining to the arm hole edge of the body lining, and manipulating the sleeve of the garment into the opening left by said free collar edges while joining the shoulder edges of the body lining together.

, PHILIP SEGAL. 

